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MP tribal girls script success story — in Vogue, style trade

4 min read

TILL FIVE days in the past, Sita Vasuniya (25) was an unknown tribal lady within the quiet city of Mandu, 35 km from Dhar. But her anonymity ended when her {photograph}, draped in a beige and golden Maheshwari silk sari which she had hand-printed in brilliant hues of pink and black, received picked up by Vogue Italia’s digital version on March 29.
Similarly, Kiran Davre (20), from the neighboring village of Sulibardi, was a Microbiology pupil who additionally helped out on her household’s one-acre farm. Today, she is contemplating modelling assignments in Mumbai, after her images, in a brilliant yellow sari handprinted by her, did the rounds of the style trade.
Sita and Kiran are a part of a gaggle of 10 tribal girls who’re scripting their very own tales of financial and social independence — one sari at a time.

It was solely in January that these girls, from neighboring villages in Mandu, have been roped in for Dhara, a self-help group arrange by the district administration to supply sustainable livelihood to girls beneath Madhya Pradesh’s Ek Jila, Ek Utpad Scheme. There are two different such teams — Suraj and Chandani.
Helmed by Dhar’s Additional District Magistrate Saloni Sidana, the group was skilled within the conventional handicraft, albeit with a contemporary twist which included innovation within the texture of material, design and color.
Instead of the standard ‘Bagh’ design of flower motifs, the district administration tied up with the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and Nation Institute of Design (NID) to discover new designs.
Meanwhile, a staff of 4 college students, headed by Aman Akash, a part of Enactus SRCC, an NGO, performed a market survey to know the calls for within the textile trade and the methods to reinvent. The staff additionally created a database of potential shoppers.
Women of the self-help group. (Courtesy: Aditi Gupta)
“We wanted to create products that appeal to all age groups, and women in different professions who can wear these saris in various seasons. We came up with several designs, playing around with the geometry, and also experimenting with the fabric,” mentioned Sidana.
A neighborhood handicraft artist, Gurudutt Kathe, was roped in to coach the ladies. They learnt to print the wood blocks on delicate material, experimenting with varied varieties — from Batik to Dabu printing. They have been additionally skilled in threadwork and hand portray.
But when the primary batch of saris have been prepared, the second wave of Covid-19 made travelling tough. Aditi Gupta, a Delhi-based photographer, was roped in in order that the saris may very well be displayed in a listing as an alternative. And the ladies modelled their saris themselves.
“They told us to dress as we usually do. We were not made to put on any make-up or anything that was not us,” mentioned Mona Daver, one other member of Dhara who has develop into an skilled in Batik printing.
The 10 girls have been photographed in opposition to the picturesque backdrops of historic monuments round Mandu. Gupta later shared these images – on a platform for photographers referred to as Photo Vogue on Vogue Italia’s digital version, and inside her circle.
“My father-in-law called me and said ‘meri bahu ne mera naam ucha kar diya hai’,” mentioned Sita, a mom of a two-year-old.
Sitting in her mud home, surrounded by her 4 sisters, Kiran is weighing her choices – whether or not to proceed her research, or take up the modelling affords. “It is her choice, if she wants to go,” mentioned her father, Kanhaiya.
Meanwhile, the Dhara girls have obtained Rs 3,000 every for his or her work. For many, it was their first wage. “I wanted to buy a sari, but I thought that if I save the money, I will be able to help my husband to build our house,” mentioned Mona. Sita wished to purchase a cellphone.
The new saris, with their fashionable designs, have attracted many homegrown manufacturers in Delhi and Mumbai. Some designers have additionally despatched inquiries, looking for to collaborate and use the printed materials for luggage and footwear. With many people approaching them for single items, Dhara has additionally created an Instagram account to show the saris.
Sidana mentioned they’re within the technique of getting orders for 200 sarees. With the brand new orders, the ladies within the group are taking a look at incomes at the least Rs 10,000 per 30 days. And after the photoshoot, she mentioned, she began getting calls from a number of tribal girls. “Women empowerment is not about holding programmes to mark Women’s Day, but about such small actions of upliftment and providing livelihood. I am glad that their understanding of what constitutes beauty has changed and they can look in the mirror and feel they are as beautiful as anyone else,” mentioned Sidana.

Dhar Collector Alok Singh mentioned he had allotted Rs 5 lakh for the challenge, which can be expanded to incorporate about 25 girls. There are plans to get one other Rs 25 lakh from corporates, as a part of their CSR funding. “We want to ensure adequate funding so that their business can start rolling; they can later self-finance it,” he mentioned.